We had heard about the gigantic Semana de Santa Festival in Antigua, Guatemala years before we finally went. Apparently it is the most populated one in the world.
We were coming down from a 1.5 month trip where we had visited Spain, Portugal and Colombia before heading to our last destination: Guatemala. A place I had read about in my studies of the great Maya civilization, a place that held great mystique and wonder in my mind. To say I was excited about the trip was an understatement. As our plans abroad shifted slightly, and we decided to cut our time in Europe a bit short and see Colombia and Guatemala, it serendipitously came together that we would be able to visit during the peak time – Semana de Santa.
How to Get to Antigua, Guatemala
The city of Antigua is about 1 hour (or 1 and a half hours if it during rush hour) by car from the airport in the capital city of Guatemala City.
We were able to catch an Uber at the Guatemala city airport all the way to Antigua (Uber is available in Guatemala City and Antigua). The ride was stunning as we entered through the mountainous range, populated with many pine looking trees and spoke to our kind driver in Spanish.
Best ways to get there:
- Uber – we ordered an uber straight from our mobile phones as soon as we picked up our luggage from the airport in Guatemala City. It was easy, safe and straightforward, taking us straight to our airbnb in Centro, Antigua.
- Hot Tip: just make sure that your phone is unlocked if you want to get data through a sim card as soon as you land at the Guatemala City airport. The newer iphones are even easier, as all you have to do is download an app such as Airalo (we love) and you can pick from several electronic sims in the country you are in. Simply connect to the airport wifi to do this and voila! You will have a gig or more of data to get your started in your adventure in Guatemala.
- Taxi – there should be plenty of taxi options vying for your business as soon as you exit the airport and step onto the curb. Should run you about $35 however we preferred using an uber since you can track where they are going and make sure that your driver is vetted through the app.
- Car Rental – They have the regular ones, Avis, Hertz, etc. Just know that driving in Guatemala can sometimes be tricky with unexpected potholes and crazy driving. As long as you drive defensibly and feel comfortable with a good insurance plan included with your booking this is a good option for those who want to explore more and have greater freedom.
- Shuttle – book it ahead of time with GottaGo or just book it as soon as you arrive to the airport. You may have to wait longer if you don’t pre-book however.
- Public Bus – if you are brave and want to travel like a local on the cheap, you can take a “chicken bus” from Guatemala City to Antigua. You have to take a shuttle from the airport to the downtown Guatemala City bus terminal first though, then take a bus from there to Antigua. It will cost you around $2 USD but it may not be worth it if you are traveling with a bunch of expensive things or don’t speak any Spanish. We have taken chicken buses in Guatemala and Belize. There is no air conditioning and you quite literally may be traveling beside someone carrying a cage with a chicken. It is quite an experience that we think you should at least try but perhaps not if you are traveling with all of your luggage.
Where To Stay in Antigua, Guatemala
We think Airbnb is a great, affordable choice in Antigua. Both times we went to Antigua (in the same big trip) we stayed in Airbnb.
Our first stay was right in Centro (downtown) Antigua and our host was very friendly and made us feel at home, safe and welcomed. Our room was in the traditional Guatemalan style with the bedrooms all wrapping around a central atrium or open air square, teeming with beautiful, tropical plants and birds flitting in and out. It was gorgeous. Our room felt rather like a convent with its old fashioned dark wood furniture but it was clean and pretty and a wonderful central spot to galavant the beautiful city. It cost us $55 per night for this airbnb.
Our second airbnb was also a sort of home stay where we were fed 3 meals a day (if we wanted) with our kind host named Maria Elsa. It was a big house, still in centro but more on the outskirts, right next to the ruins contained in the Museo del Hermano Pedro. Our room was cute yet small but again worked for our needs. We stayed there for a week and had the opportunity to completely immerse ourselves in the incredible festivities of Semana de Santa – the week leading up to Easter. It cost us $250 for 1 week that included 3 meals a day.
Both airbnbs were in great locations and for a great price. So we’d definitely recommend booking an airbnb if you also would like to experience how life is as a local, and with the beautiful, traditional architecture of Antigua. However if you are looking for something more luxurious there are plenty of nice, luxury hotels to stay as well.
Great Hotel Options in Antigua, Guatemala:
Luxury
Medium Priced (3 or 4 star)
Budget/Economy
Our Advice? Whether you stay at a hotel or in an airbnb definitely choose a place that is within walking distance to the center of town.
Antigua, Guatemala Weather
When we landed in Guatemala City, the air was markedly different from that of our previous destination in tropical Medellin, Colombia. It felt much drier, as if we had entered a high elevation (the elevation of Guatemala City is 1,500 m (4,900 ft) and Antigua is 1,545 m (5,069 ft).
The weather is pleasant all year long and stays within a mild range of a low of 53.6 degrees (Fahrenheit) to a high of 87.8 degrees (Fahrenheit). The best times to visit Antigua are January, February, March, April, November and December
- Hottest month of the year: June
- Coldest month of the year: January
- Driest month of the year: February
- Wettest month of the year: September
The History of Antigua, Guatemala
Antigua used to be the capital of Guatemala from when it was founded in 1524 until 1773. Natural disasters such as volcanic eruptions, floods and earthquakes had always plagued the city, but it wasn’t until 1773 when violent Santa Marta earthquakes destroyed many parts of the town. At that point the capital was moved to the safer location of Guatemala City. However Antigua still holds much of the cultural, educational and historic significance in Guatemala since its rich history goes much deeper.
The Mayas of Guatemala
The recent modern history of Guatemala was something I had been interested in ever since reading the book Time Among The Maya by Ronald Wright.
Guatemala has not always been a tourist destination. There was a civil war beginning in the early 1980’s, which was essentially between the majority indigenous Maya population and the elite Criollo (a person of pure Spanish descent born in the Americas) factions who dominated the government, economy and lands, and who had for over 400 years subjected the indigenous Mayas to unspeakable horrors. The list is long but includes conquest of their land, violence, genocide, slavery, exclusion from human rights (education, land ownership, autonomy), taxes, poverty, debt, and more.
Rigoberta Menchú
A great book I completely recommend reading called I, Rigoberta Menchú, An Indian Woman in Guatemala was written by a Maya woman, Rigoberta Menchú, a K’iche’ Maya Guatemalan human rights activist, feminist, and Nobel Peace Prize laureate. She was one of the first indigenous women to receive a Nobel Peace Prize in 1992, and survived the 1980’s Civil War in Guatemala, despite the very sad fact that much of her family did not.
She was able to escape Guatemala and flee to Chiapas, Mexico and has lived outside of Guatemala since then, for fear of anything happening to her if she goes back. Her book is one I recommend to anyone visiting Guatemala or interested in the very recent politics and history of Central America. The human rights that Rigoberta Menchú fought for her indigenous people, her Maya brothers and sisters of Guatemala, is a heroic and meaningful fight that made a great impact in Guatemala and in the greater Indian communities of Latin America. She brought the untold story, the challenges and horrors her community faced and why it was so important to fight for their right to live and prosper, in the face of widespread genocide.
Thankfully, Guatemala has changed a lot since the 1980’s. A peace agreement was made and the civil war ended officially in 1996. Although much progress has been made for indigenous people, there are still issues with an unstable government. However because of the relative peace that has existed since 1996, Guatemala has seen a resurgence of tourism and has improved their economy drastically. Guatemala’s tourism industry has been growing ever since with a plethora of backpackers as well as luxury travelers alike. Antigua is a beautiful city that draws many tourists to its charm and sophistication, not to mention the drop dead gorgeous landscape as its backdrop.
The Architecture of Antigua, Guatemala
The architecture is considered Barroco antigueño, an American colonial style with detailed decorated stucco inside and outside, as well as a column bordered courtyard in the middle of each building, thick walls with large windows and a beautiful straight lined grid-plan for the city layout so that streets run from south-north and west-east.
First Exploring Antigua, Guatemala
We reached the beautiful town of Antigua right as the sun was setting and settled into our airbnb, a room with twin beds inside of a colonial house equipped with a beautiful garden courtyard and garden rooftop terrace.
We explored the city by foot as we always do, checking out the main zocolo (the main central plaza) and the side streets, discovering a beautiful restaurant named Los Tres Tiempos with a rooftop terrace overlooking a garden courtyard and views of the gorgeous city at night lit up. We had a Guatemalan style plate with shrimp tostadas and corn elotes.
We checked out a huge artisan store filled with beautiful paintings, pieces of traditional Guatemalan artwork, brightly colored handmaid textiles such as wall hanging tapestries, table cloths and clothing. We saw many interesting masks, and more.
Semana de Santa – A Week of Celebration
At our home stay airbnb we stayed with a family who were actively participating in all of the festivities. Semana de Santa is celebrated in Antigua during the week leading up to Easter.
Being in the center of town was such an amazing opportunity to see so much and feel all of the excitement build throughout the week. More and more tourists and Guatemalan pilgrims kept entering the city and you could just feel the energy increasing.
The Many Alfombras (Carpets) of Semana de Santa
Part of the tradition of Semana de Santa are the many alfombras (or carpets) that so many local families lovingly create (only to be destroyed later) before the main procession on Good Friday. We were in awe of the many alfombras we saw all over the centro of Antigua and the dedicated focus each family member as they carefully poured colored dust or sand on the cobblestone street in front of their houses, along with other natural objects such as plant fibers, colorful flowers, and other creative objects. The designs they created were all unique and absolutely gorgeous.
The Good Friday Procession of Semana de Santa
We were lucky to catch a few different processions happening around downtown Antigua. The crowded streets didn’t hide the high wooden platform carrying the statues of Jesus and Mother Mary marching somberly down the streets and across the alfombras. The most unforgettable sight was seeing the dozens of purple robe clad men carrying the heavy, huge wooden platform on top of their shoulders as they synchronized each step of their march. The kicker is when they walked over all of the beautiful alfombras, destroying the gorgeous art that was so painstakingly created only days before.
We learned that it is a great honor to be one of these men holding the platform in the many processions during Semana de Santa and especially on the main day of Good Friday. Apparantly these men wait to be chosen and must spend a lot of money to participate.
Learn More about Semana de Santa
Check out more about our experience and what we learned about Semana de Santa, the biggest celebration in the world happening in Antigua, Guatemala in our Youtube video below!
Best Time to Visit Antigua, Guatemala
We think the best time is to visit is in the Spring or Winter. The weather is beautiful, there isn’t a lot of rainfall and it feels moderately warm. Plus in the Spring you can come for the incredible festivities of Semana de Santa.
Best things to do in Antigua, Guatemala
A Variety for Every Taste
There is plenty to do and see when you are in Antigua! Antigua is a city that has such a variety for any interest or budget. Whether you are looking to go on a difficult overnight hike to see a gigantic active volcano or would rather cozy up by a fireplace in a colonial hotel, or experience the deep and beautiful Mayan culture through many facets including a cooking class or textile weaving class, Antigua has you covered.
Must See Sights
Colonial Architecture
- Walk around and enjoy the colorful unesco heritage colonial architecture of Centro in Antigua.
Calle del Arco (Arch Street)
- Visit the famous Calle del Arco (Arch Street) and take pictures.
El Zocolo
- Go to el Zocolo (the main plaza) and people watch.
Museums
Hermano Pedro
- Explore the ruins of Museo del Hermano Pedro.
ChocoMuseo
- Visit the ChocoMuseo and discover the process of chocolate and how it was founded in Guatemala.
Photo by Pablo Merchán Montes on Unsplash
Museo Casa Del Tejido Antiguo
- See traditional Mayan textiles being handmade and learn the ancient art of Mayan weaving at Museo Casa Del Tejido Antiguo, located right outside of Antigua.
Shopping
Nim Pót
- Go to the many adorable traditional artisanal shops in Centro such as Nim Pót or at the Mercado Municipal De Artesanias, and pick out some beautiful, unique handmade items for your home including table runners, artwork and wooden objects.
Farms
Caoba Farms Restaurant
- Go to an organic farm at Caoba Farms Restaurant (farm to table restaurant)
Girasoles de Antigua
- Visit a Sunflower farm at Girasoles de Antigua
Hiking
Hill of the Cross (“Cerro de la Cruz”) in Antigua
- Can walk from the centro Antigua
- Less than 2 hours total
- Easy hike
- Eat the snow cones from one of the vendors at the top and enjoy the views!
Pacaya Volcano Day Hike
- About an hour drive in a shuttle outside of Antigua
- Requires a guide
- Better to go in the morning to enjoy clear views of the top of the active volcano which unfortunately we couldn’t see with all the afternoon fog.
- Medium difficulty
- Option to ride a horse for extra cost if the hike is too strenuous
- Can reserve a package via the many tourist businesses in Centro Antigua, or a recommendation from your hotel or host, or else book online
Acetenango Volcano Overnight Hike (with Fuego Volcano Views)
- About an hour drive in a shuttle outside of Antigua
- Requires a guide
- Heard it was the most magical experience, where you hike in the evening, camp at night and wake up to the sunrise over the active Fuego Volcano with red lava spilling out over the top in the near distance
- More difficult level
- Can reserve a package via the many tourist businesses in Centro Antigua, or a recommendation from your hotel or host, or else book online
- Definitely want to do this the next time we visit!
Experiences
Take a Cooking Class with a Local
- We did a traditional Guatemalan chocolate mole and platano dessert with our Airbnb host Maria Elsa. It was delicious!
Best Places to Eat
Antigua boasts some seriously gourmet, delicious and quality food and beverage choices all over the city. Be ready to eat a lot of great food and enjoy yourself immensely. There is a surprising level of variety of international cuisine in addition to the traditional Guatemalan cuisine, so once again, Antigua has pretty much anything for any taste.
Our Favorite Restaurants, Bars and Cafes:
- Antigua Brewing Company – Brewery with rooftop panoramic views
- Kombu Ramen Shop – Ramen place
- Patio de la Primera – Beautiful courtyard place last night with fire pit and pizza
- Los Tres Tiempos – lovely rooftop patio with traditional Guatemalan plates
Is Antigua safe?
Yes, in our experience it felt very safe, even during the most busy time of year – Semana de Santa – where there were thousands more tourists and pilgrims there to partake in the festivities.
Antigua is generally safe during the day when it is busy and bustling, however with any place you aren’t familiar, it is smart to be careful when going down streets you don’t know, especially ones that aren’t well populated and at night.
We think it is also good to at least have a small amount of Spanish under your belt, in order to make your interactions go more smoothly. Speaking a little bit of the local language goes a long way in being welcomed in a foreign country.
Overall we felt Antigua was a very safe and welcoming place to visit.
Best Day Trips from Antigua, Guatemala
Hobbitenango
- How to get there: Take a 30-45 minute Uber to Hobbitenango
- Hobbitenango is a place you can participate in games such as axe throwing, medieval games, beautiful perches on oversized hands where you can take pictures of panoramic views of the nearby mountains, ride the giant swing off the side of the hill, drink delicious local beer from a tiny hobbit house while you listen to live music and sit on a hillside.
- Enter the hobbit houses and take pictures with a silly hat on, and enjoy the delicious menu from the main restaurant.
- We had an amazing time at Hobbitenango and definitely think you should make a day of it while you are in Antigua!
Altamira Oriole (Park Near Hobbitenango)
- Altamira Oriole Antigua Guatemala is a nearby rival park to Hobbitenango that was fun to explore
- We got beer and nachos at the restaurant and the food was decent but the views were better.
- They also have giant hands to walk onto as you take in the sights of the misty, cloudy volcanic mountains all around you.
Lake Atitlán
Phew! Lake Atitlán is one of the most breathtaking lakes we’ve ever been to. We took a shuttle (colectivo) from Antigua to Lake Atitlán for about 3 hours. After a long time driving through the curvy roads through the mountains you finally descend into Lake Atitlán and are struck by the majestic beauty of it all.
There are many different small towns around the huge lake to choose from – all with their own magical vibe that might interest different people for different reasons. We stayed in the biggest town of San Pedro at an airbnb that was really beautiful overlooking the lake.
A Lake of Many Villages with Different Vibes
We also took the inexpensive boats to other towns to explore and discover more beauty. We loved San Marcos La Laguna with its many yoga studios and hippie hostels. We enjoyed a chocolate covered banana before trekking up the hillside to enjoy a lunch at the gorgeous, peaceful The Ranch Restaurant with fine wine and gourmet food overlooking the lake.
We also checked out Santa Cruz la Laguna where we ate at the idealic La Iguana Perdida. Finally we went to Panajachel and walked around the many stores and enjoyed the sunset over the lake.
In San Pedro where we were staying, we were able to take a weaving class with the kindest Mayan grandmother (an amazing experience you can watch in our Youtube video here). We also rode horses with a very friendly owner through the streets of San Pedro and down to the riverside.
It was an incredible trip and we definitely recommend you take at least a few days to go to Lake Atitlán and experience it for yourself! Article coming soon with more information about our experience here.
Is Antigua, Guatemala worth visiting?
Absolutely! We think that it is an amazing, central place to begin your travels around Guatemala and soak in all of the culture, history and friendly way of life. There are pretty much fun and interesting things to do and see as well as incredibly delicious food and beverages for all tastes, ages and backgrounds.
Don’t hesitate – book your plane ticket and visit Antigua sooner than later!
