To be honest, we didn’t intentionally choose Merida to start. We were originally searching for a volunteer program as we were planning to slow travel our way through Mexico, and down to Central and South America for two years. We ended up signing up for a volunteer restoration project that happened to be an hour outside of Merida, but we only lasted 24 hours due to our lack of preparation for a rough accommodation. Merida became the logical choice for our next destination because of the close vicinity. Just to reiterate we found Merida by a fluke – our original inspiration for the move was Tulum, Quintana Roo.
After we had pinned down our volunteer project, we did a little research on Merida since we were staying there a few days beforehand. We were intrigued by all of the different barrios (neighborhoods), colonias (neighborhoods of large metropolitan areas) and fraccionamientos (can be gated communities with cookie-cutter houses but not always). There were so many names dotting the city!
When we returned from the volunteer program we got a really nice Airbnb not too far away from Centro, which is the historic district in the center of Merida. Centro is the most popular area for tourists and expats. It is surrounded by a circular road named Circuito Colonias and we were told this road lies on the foundation of the walls that surrounded historic Merida centuries ago. There are also four historic arches at the north, south, east and west sides of Centro which were used to only permit entry to certain people and kept out others.
We stayed in Colonia Buena Vista just north of Centro. The Airbnb was only $20 per night. It was a studio apartment behind our hostess Laura’s house, who is now a good friend. The house is gated and guarded by two very friendly, giant sheepdogs who greeted us upon our entry. The place had a pool, which, trust us – is near essential in the dead of summer when temperatures that can rise well above 100 degrees with full humidity.
At this point we had no idea we would be choosing Merida as our home base, we just thought, “well, okay. Let’s stay here for a few weeks and regroup on what our next plan is.”
The weather is definitely something to consider when thinking about moving here. Do you like hot, tropical weather? Or do you prefer the spring-like temps around Mexico City? Or do you prefer cold, snowy places where you can ski?
Finding a Home Base Tip #1
Look up when the most intense heat or cold hits and plan a trip around that. See if you can handle it.
If you’re thinking about actually moving to Merida you should try spending time here for at least a couple of weeks during the hot season, which is sometime between May-August. If you find the heat and humidity unbearable there are plenty of other dryer, cooler places for expats to live in Mexico, if Mexico is your preferred destination. 🙂
Also, you may consider becoming a “snowbird” and only living here part of the year during the cooler months of October/November – March/April (as so many expats do).
Check out our best tips on How To Deal With The Heat In Merida here.
We had come from the rainy, cloudy and cooler temps of Portland, Oregon. For me, Yucatan’s weather was a huge relief. My dream vacations almost always consisted of tropical paradises with palm trees, clear, turquoise waters and copious amounts of sunshine. So if you’re looking for that holiday vibe, Merida is a great place to live. You will be smack dab in the center of so many amazing places bursting with natural beauty, tropical touches and tons of wonderful Mexican and Mayan culture.
But here’s the thing that really stood out to us about Merida. In comparison to other more popular destinations nearby such as Cancun, Tulum or Playa del Carmen – there is real livability to this city.
Test different areas:
Rent a place on Airbnb or a temporary room for a few weeks. Airbnb has been our go-to for affordable accommodations. And we just love the funky, unique, more personable experiences we’ve found through Airbnb while we travel around the world!
Also, it’s even better if you can befriend the local person renting it out to you. They will most definitely be a great asset – will give you tips, recommendations, and insight into the very place you are thinking of setting down some roots. Then, once you begin getting out and exploring during this initial period — you will begin to see areas of town that call to you and feel more like home compared with other parts. Again, we prefer to explore on foot as much possible.
In our experience Merida is much more affordable to live than other vacation spots in the Yucatán Peninsula. Check out this article if you want to know a little more information about cost of living around Mexico.
This place has such an amazing quality of life with a fairly low cost of living. It feels like home completely, which can seem like a strange thing to say, since we are from a different country. But anyone who gives it a chance often finds Merida has a certain charm and warmth which makes them never want to leave. As our friends at Donia Way (a Yucatecan specialty store) say: :Merida, Yucatan has a magical well and once you drink the water from it you will forever be in love.”
That has totally been our experience here in every way.
As we walked around we saw where we wanted to live and picked our desired location. Which is super important for building the lifestyle abroad that you really want to create. We can’t emphasize this enough – if you have the means to take your time, and not be in a rush to commit to a place before landing here – we absolutely recommend that.
Around the same time, we were checking online for apartment and house rentals. Both English speaking and Spanish speaking real estate pages popped up on Facebook. What we noticed (as expected), was that the English speaking offers were about twice the price of the Spanish speaking offers.
We saw one ad that looked decent for only $75 USD per month for 1 room in a house filled with other students and travelers located in Centro. It sounded intriguing. The Mexican woman who owned the property showed us around; it smelled of cat and dog poo and was rather dingey. She was very kind however and we found out that she rescued many stray dogs and cats (which is a big thing here in Merida and the Yucatan). But the place wasn’t for us so we politely said goodbye and walked down the block.
Then we just happened to see a cute pastel pink place with a “Se Renta” sign and number. We called, using the little Spanish we knew, coupled with a very handy Google-Translate app to communicate we wanted to see the place. A woman came to show us a little later. We learned it was previously used as the landlord’s law office. But it was bright, cheerful and clean with partial furnishings of a bed, table, and chairs.
When looking for a temporary or permanent place to live make sure you give yourself the flexibility and time to look locally before you agree to any online deal for a place to rent. And even more important if you are looking for a place to buy.
Additionally, another smart option is to hire a local (ask for recommendations on the facebook groups) to look for you and secure the agreement before you arrive or they can take you to look at places when you actually arrive. We did this when looking for our second home in Merida and couldn’t be more happy with the results.
We ended up renting the apartment on a month to month contract thinking initially it would be for a few months, but that turned out to be 17 months. We paid about $200 USD per month and it was within walking distance to everything we needed and more. One of our favorite French brunch and coffee hangouts was a block away – Bistro Cultural. And so many more restaurants, cafes, markets, shops, bars, and plazas were nearby too.
UPSIDE OF LIVING IN CENTRO
It was a great first place, because we were in the middle of everything and the energy of being in the middle of the city was great. Hearing people biking down our street yelling “TAMALES” and other delicious Mexican treats, was something that always made me happy to be living in the vibrant culture of Mexico. There was a great mix of local Mexicans (we noticed mainly older generations) and expats in the area.
We fell in love with Historic Centro when we first moved here. Everything was basically within walking distance. There are so many beautiful 19th century French-inspired and pastel-colored homes, storefronts, and medieval Spanish cathedrals. There is always so much life and bustling energy going on day and night. It’s on the streets and in the plazas.
Every colonia, especially in the historic district has a really old cathedral with a plaza. It’s a great place to people-watch or find fresh produce, markets, and street food nearby. In Mexico, the plazas are the heartbeat of the neighborhood (or city). There are always cultural events, concerts and celebrations happening in the plazas. Watch our vlog “Merida Comes Alive At Night” to see what a stroll through Historic Centro looks like.
Many of these homes in Centro reminded us of our trip to Morocco several years ago (where we got engaged). While there we stayed at a large Arab “riad” in Fez, Morocco. You see many resemblances in Mexican architecture to Spanish architecture, which we learned was heavily influenced by the Moorish (Islamic) architecture in Northern Africa. Homes built like little fortresses, once you enter the front door through a tall, imposing wall, you feel like you are stepping into a whole new world.
It’s completely hidden from the public world. There are very high ceilings, grand spaces, gardens, fountains, pools, and plaza type atriums in the back of these homes. This allows for a peaceful, serene outdoor experience within the confines of a secure home. It also offers a very economical source of free, cool airflow, which makes so much sense in hotter climates.
The downside was all of the traffic, especially the buses that would drive down our road, vibrating our bedroom window. Downtown is also the major tourist district for Merida and can be busy at certain times of the year. You also find the restaurants because of the influence of tourism will be much more expensive.
Finding a Home Base Tip #4
When you are choosing a home base make sure it is easy to get into and out of if you are choosing to travel from the destination. Merida’s airport is small and easily manageable if you need to get through the airport in less than an hour.
A couple of occasions we have taken the 4-hour shuttle from Merida to Cancun to fly out, but if you look hard enough you can find most destinations available.
After my scare with dengue fever in Southeast Asia, this past summer then spending time recuperating with family in California and Portland – we made a few key decisions in regards to our return back to Merida. We were itching to return as we missed both of our cats. They were being kindly looked after by a friend we had met during a Location Indie conference in Queretaro, Mexico the previous February (2019). Isaac graciously agreed to stay at our apartment in Merida and live the Mexican experience for a few months during the hottest time of the year.
Our next step after fixing up the car was reaching out to the Mexico based community….
To learn the local language, meet new friends and find help in a local community get out and shake hands with people and don’t be afraid to try something new even if it is scary.
This is where we have found most of the pertinent information and advice that we needed to make key and informed decisions. For example was it safe and possible to drive our car all the way through Mexico? They gave us detailed info on the best and safest route to take (we went through the Laredo, TX border crossing an hour south of San Antonio). They gave us safety tips for example only take the toll roads. And to go down through Monterrey, San Luis Potosi, Queretaro, Mexico City and south toward the Yucatan. We did go a little off route in order to see Oaxaca City and San Cristobal de Las Casas which was incredible.
Picture above: Nate overlooking the Jardins de Oaxaca, Oaxaca City
They also told us to only drive during the day – and to be very careful and cognizant of our belongings that we were carrying in our car. So we took three weeks to complete the road trip and only drove a few hours per day, which was more fun anyway. We chose Airbnb’s using the filter to only show places with covered and secured parking for our car. We looked at the map view in Airbnb and checked the safety of neighborhoods before we booked, as well.
We got all the way back to Merida completely safe and sound with our car, some more belongings from Portland, and an amazing road trip under our belts!
For so many reasons! After about a year and a half of travel yet continuously coming back to Merida, we decided we wanted to make it more of a permanent home base. We still want to continue traveling and being part-time nomadic. We have found different ways of earning income online/remotely that we can do from anywhere in the world. With basic needs of electricity and a wifi connection we can continue to work. (We will be rolling out a blog post about earning income as a digital nomad soon!)
Our vision and goal is to have the best of both worlds and be able to travel whenever we want and when we can afford it. We want to be able to work and make money while traveling. But we also want to have the comforts of a home base that feels safe, happy, secure, luxurious, beautiful, grounded and inviting. The fact that Merida is not too far away from our family in the USA and in a similar time zone, is just one added bonus.
Merida has definitely checked all the boxes and become the perfect home base for us! Its combined factors of affordability, friendliness, rich cultural and historical background, social networking opportunities (amazing locals and expats), and safety are all reasons for this. Merida has recently ranked the second safest place to live in all of North America after Quebec City, Canada. There is also such an amazing mix of authentic, laidback Mexican lifestyle with modern, American amenities you might not want to live without.
When we got back we realized we had outgrown our tiny one-bedroom apartment, which was great for us initially because it was in such a great area. However we were ready for something a little bigger and nicer.
You can listen to more about our initial experience in Merida in the Location Indie podcast with Travis Sherry here. (Plus if you are thinking of becoming location independent we highly recommend becoming a part of this amazing tribe of people).
One month after we got back in our car we called on a local friend. We heard she had helped so many other expats like us find the home rental of their dreams for a very good price. Her name is Barbara Blanco of her company Merida Moves. She just aired on House Hunters International for helping another expat friend find her home here.
We first had an initial consultation, where we gave her our list of all of the things we wanted to have in our home base. We paid her a reasonable sum to take us to several different house rentals she found over the course of a couple of days. Within the first day, we found the home of our dreams and with her legal help signed the one year lease two days later.
At approximately $500 USD per month, we have a two-bedroom, two-story, brand new never-lived-in-before house. It came furnished (other than the most comfortable couch we picked up at FAMSA for approximately $200 USD). With so much storage space, closets, drawers, and cabinets, it also has the prettiest light fixtures and touches. There is a tile floor downstairs, marble countertops, and A/C units in every room. There are custom, wavy marble walls in the bathrooms (we actually have FOUR bathrooms – unbelievable). It also has a beautiful, artsy chandelier over the stairs, pretty track lighting, an induction stovetop, and beautiful natural lighting.
It’s in a neighborhood called Nuevo Yucatan, which is very close to Colonia Aleman. Aleman was the first “suburban” neighborhood to be developed close to Historic Centro. This place feels like heaven. It’s like living in the country with all the nature, trees, and tranquility but it’s still inside the city limits and only 15 minute car ride to Centro. We even walk to Centro sometimes, which takes about an hour by foot.
We have a pool guy who comes once a week to keep the pool lookin’ fresh (say what!!!???). We drive to a modern grocery store like Costco or Chedraui Selecto (which has so many organic, gourmet and vegetarian brands). Or we go to more traditional local mercados for fruit, produce, spices, eggs, and honey.
This is definitely a dream home for us. It has helped us really thrive and live an amazing quality of life. It also supports our work/business/creative lives since we often work out of home.
It definitely feels surreal at times and we pinch ourselves everyday we get to live here.
We wouldn’t have been able to afford this kind of place in the United States, especially in Portland, which is getting more expensive every year. We definitely plan on staying at this house rental for at least the next year. We’ve also talked about even staying for the next few years if possible.
It would be amazing to stay here and begin the search of buying a dream home/lot, where we can either renovate a house that we find or build a new house. We’d love to be able to rent out part of it, either year-long or part-time (when we travel) and let the investment work its magic. We also envision it being like a haven where our family can come and stay as long as they want and where we can host friends.
In the house rental, we have now, we’ve already had several friends come and stay with us for a few days here and there. It has been amazing to have them come and be a part of our lives.
ADDITIONAL INFO & OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER (IF YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT MOVING HERE):
Finding a Home Base Tip #6
We suggest getting the Google Translate app on your phone! We love their camera option when looking at signs, labels, and menus anywhere for quick translation
Finding a Home Base Tip #7
We just signed up for Trusted house Sitters in order to find great pet sitters when we travel. As well as find connecting free house sits abroad. They are a great network for travelers and only $80 a year with this link for membership.
Finding a Home Base Tip #8
We’d also recommend downloading Whatsapp app on your phone in order to easily communicate with people internationally. They offer free text, phone.
What is the last reason we love living here? This place is becoming a real international hub for all great things like culture, artists, international communities (the International Peace Conference was held here recently), and more. Yet Merida remains relatively unknown. We think that might be why it is so special – it isn’t overrun with tourists. It still feels very authentic yet it is bustling and active, with always new and exciting things going on around the next corner…
Most importantly, the greatest reason we have chosen Merida as our home base is because it is full of so many amazing, friendly and warm people everywhere we go!!!
Thanks so much for reading! If you found this article helpful please be sure to like it, leave a comment and share it on all the platforms – Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest.
This website uses cookies.
View Comments
For us, the great advantage of living in Merida is how quickly you can make friends, of all nationalities, who turn out to be the closest friends you could have (apart from family!).
So you could call Merida 'A City of Friends'.
Thanks for a well-written and comprehensive blog. It has a natural touch that fits in well with the atmosphere here in Merida.
I LOVE this so much. Yes Merida is certainly a city of friends! We regularly meet new, great friends constantly of all backgrounds, ages and nationalities. Thanks for sharing your experience with us as we couldn’t agree more! Do you currently reside in Merida?
Just 2 things: Fraccionamientos are not walled in private areas...fraccionamientos (closed gated communities with cookie-cutter houses or apartments). they are basically neighborhoods and 2..food you get in cantinas are called botanas.... Good article, overall! We have rented here for 16 years!
Thanks for sharing, oops! That’s great you lived here for 16 years too!
Oh, I forgot...you could mention how close the beach is to Merida! (just about 30 minutes to Progreso)
I love that input, we definitely love visiting nearby Progreso. Thanks for sharing and we will add this recommendation soon. :)
I am moving to Merida with my soon to be wife in July and our puppy. Last year, I took a year off from teaching and we traveled all through Central America and when we finished we both knew that we were returning to Mérida... once we fond some income stability. Me lady now has a full-time remote job and I am looking to cut ties with the classroom, new source of income TBD.
Your blog post is amazing and even though I was excited before, I am now bursting. Looking forward to moving down. Let's be friends!
Dear Mak, congrats, that is amazing news and we are so happy to hear you’ll be moving here!!!! Yes, let’s stay in touch, for when you get here! Also are you on any of the expat Facebook groups?
Hey! I'm your neighbour! (living in Nuevo Yucatan too). This area is a little bit weird isn't it? In the middle of the citty but still looking like "monte" in some parts. In my block, my house is the only one... and I love it!
Best regards!
Yes it is so weird, haha! We pinch ourselves though because we truly feel we have the best of both worlds here. Best regards to you too! Maybe we will meet one day in the neighborhood!
I would add, that if you like music and like walking, then living in Centro means you can walks to El Cardenal and La Negrita cantinas without ordering a Uber. You can just walk home. Santiago and Santa Ana are good for that.
Thank you for this- we will add some more info about this soon.
What a fantastic guide this is! It answered questions I didn't even know to ask! Thank you for putting so much into this; it is very comprehensive and oh, so useful.
I’m so happy you liked it and found value in it. 🥰 Let’s keep in touch about your visit here and if you have any other questions! Are you still planning on coming here and if so how long? Excited to hear more about your travels!
Yes it is so weird, haha! We pinch ourselves though because we truly feel we have the best of both worlds here. Best regards to you too! Maybe we will meet one day in the neighborhood!
SO helpful! Thank you! Although not looking for a long-term place, my boyfriend and I are thinking about a new place after spending 4 months in Playa Del Carmen. We visited Merida for 3 days and really liked it, so .... could be coming there soon to try it out! Thanks for this :) We're from Canada & New Zealand in our early 30's so let me know if you're interested in perhaps meeting up if we go there! <3
Sure we would love to meet up. We are traveling at the moment but should be back in a week or two. The last post was from my cellphone not sure why it said anonymous:)
I'm a retired veterinary technician and have been considering a possible permanent move to Merida, Mexico but have been unable to find information concerning if there is a pet numbers limit law...I have many cats and I would not move anywhere that they were not allowed to accompany me.....does anyone know if there are numbers limit laws?..... Thank you have